tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58168388831449641342024-03-13T09:25:50.689-07:00phinn guitarsHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-6620525074266936532012-03-20T13:25:00.001-07:002012-03-20T13:26:01.134-07:00five string bass build 1I wouldn't exactly call my dad a bass player.<br />
<br />
He played bass in a band or two, in the late 70s and early 80s, but he
never geeked out on it - he just played bar songs and partied and had
fun. To his credit, him having a bass in the house was my first exposure
to electric stringed instruments.<br />
<br />
Anyways, he's in his 60s, and he told me he's always wanted a 5 string
bass. He likes when that low B goes off, and let's face it - who
doesn't?<br />
<br />
I had him over to my house to hold his (my? the?) old Precision bass he
gave me years ago (same one from the band days decades ago) and see how
it felt, what he wanted and such, and true to form, his answer was
pretty much "I don't know man, surprise me."<br />
<br />
So I am going to make a 5 string bass for my dad, because he's the man. <br />
<br />
I am thinking about a custom shape, just because he thinks its way cool that I can do that.<br />
<br />
I am a yellow-bellied chicken and ordered a mostly-built neck but the
body is starting as a slab. The neck is a maple neck with a rosewood
board. The specs are different on just about every website that sells
Mighty Mite necks, so I'll reserve specs until I can measure it myself.
Not that it matters - the two of us have about as much combined
knowledge about bass guitars as a butterfly.<br />
<br />
The body is alder, because it's the "tastes like chicken" of wood, and
hell, an alder bodied, maple/rosewood necked bass is pretty damn likely
to sound like what both of our mind's ears have "bass" sounding like.<br />
<br />
Anyways, I'm building a 5 string bass, party party!<br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
I just got the following message from my dad:<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-top: 5px; margin: 20px;">
<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom: 2px;">
Quote:</div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset;">I'm leaning toward p-bass / jazz....but I want to make some
comparisons. It definitely needs to be unique...like all Phinn Guitars
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
haha, thanks Dad<br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
Mail came today<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--H4bWhPS04E/T16fBVaPPwI/AAAAAAAADk8/uw-5cS2gKcM/s800/2012-03-12_21-08-26_569.jpg" /><br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
I met up with dad for lunch yesterday and he told me that he wants a
Precision upper and a Jazz lower, because the offset waist of the Jazz
rides great on the hip, and the upper of the Precision is what he's used
to, and he knows it works and feels good.<br />
<br />
So let's mock that up:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/cwYZYl.png" /> <br />
<br />
I think it'll work!<br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vsWgxirMytI/T2E5BZOVzlI/AAAAAAAADl8/qCWstmEufSQ/s912/2012-03-14_20-33-51_915.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hII-C5K-Ris/T2E6PViAHtI/AAAAAAAADmc/34X--jCHO8g/s912/2012-03-14_20-35-57_403.jpg" /><br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
So I got the slab in yesterday. It's alder, and it's pretty heavy. I'm
not worried about it though, because I'll be cutting nearly half of it
away, plus you want a body that can counterweigh a big 5 string neck.
Not sure if counterweigh is a word.<br />
<br />
I talked to my dad this morning, and he said he fell in love with that
deep red stain finish that happened to be in my mockup, so he wants me
to do that.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/aIpyxl.png" /><br />
<br />
Fun! I thought it was cool that he just saw that by chance, liked it, and went for it.<br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
Coming up with the shape:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5tK6BJUpwW8/T2P9gWMxTFI/AAAAAAAADoE/G0DgHe_sonU/s800/2012-03-16_22-02-52_401.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Measuring for a 5-string neck pocket<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PmLBS04WPPg/T2P96sDiXxI/AAAAAAAADok/t502IMUwm1I/s512/2012-03-16_22-11-02_920.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IH7yjtSu9B4/T2P-FGMmKKI/AAAAAAAADos/T0t7fMqSXGk/s512/2012-03-16_22-16-50_781.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<br />
How 'bout this?<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-C7lEoawFROQ/T2QDsXzEvjI/AAAAAAAADps/j7AkbqYAmX4/s800/2012-03-16_22-45-26_62.jpg" /><br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
So next we trace the final shape onto MDF and cut that out with a jigsaw (bandsaw if you got it)<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7YpvTlBw6Lk/T2UIuUsRa3I/AAAAAAAADsA/4GPErIca-gI/s512/2012-03-17_17-31-39_660.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Then we hit the R.O.S.S. (Ridgid Oscillating Spindle Sander, God bless it) to sand to the line:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-08ckCSFEvHw/T2UI32YLR7I/AAAAAAAADsI/xukjXh8pv94/s800/2012-03-17_17-31-52_198.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7eNqw6itcXg/T2UI_llskII/AAAAAAAADsQ/-80yMm7Ca6s/s800/2012-03-17_17-32-01_32.jpg" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5-VOJjKbL34/T2UJqazTAnI/AAAAAAAADs4/EqPdBGMfhAo/s800/2012-03-17_17-44-27_510.jpg" /><br />
You can see in that last picture that we're getting there, and the lines
are smooooooooth! I'm doing a lot better with the ROSS this time
around.<br />
<br />
It was so pretty yesterday, I decided to leave the shop and load up my
boy in the bike trailer for a bike ride, so here is where I left off
yesterday: need to do the horn interiors and the neck joint, then it's
time to screw it to the alder and get to routing!<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TCJcF9it4IA/T2UKJKZNuMI/AAAAAAAADtY/qmLCkzWqTpU/s512/2012-03-17_17-49-35_242.jpg" /><br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
Hand sanding details of the template:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.imgur.com/feQ9hl.jpg" /><br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
Template finished, center line marked, mounting holes placed, drilled, and countersunk:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.imgur.com/tdIPZl.jpg" /><br />
<br />
You countersink these holes because this surface will be on the router
table when you route the body shape, and you can't have the screw heads
(of the screws that affix the template to the slab) poking out <br />
______<br />
<br />
Body shape traced on to the slab. Extremely careful attention is paid to
make sure the center line of the template lines up perfectly with the
glue line on the slab.<br />
<br />
Next, I will rough cut the shape into the slab with a jigsaw. After
that, I attach the template and route the exact shape with a pattern bit
on the router table.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.imgur.com/UaCOEl.jpg" /><br />
<br />
______<br />
<br />
So we rough cut the slab with the jigsaw:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/3atJ8l.jpg" /><br />
<br />
And be sure to make perpendicular relief cuts on concave sections. When
you come through here along the curve, those blocks drop off and
decrease blade binding:<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/MiNO2l.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Real talk, this did not go well for me. I am using a Ryobi jigsaw, and
it's really not the right tool for the job. The right tool is a bandsaw,
and I have finally gotten serious about acquiring one, because this
job was so tough. <br />
<br />
This alder is a really tough cut for some reason, I broke one blade and
it's all been really slow and built up a lot of heat both in the wood
and in the jigsaw motor.<br />
<br />
Dense wood gives you a lot of blade walk, where your blade bends inside
the wood because of stresses, and the top of your blade and the bottom
of your blade are coming out in different places.<br />
<br />
That's bad because you can think you're cutting outside the line of your
body shape, and actually be cutting inside the line (on the bottom
where you can't see the blade).<br />
<br />
So I stopped. Then I headed to the ROSS to try to take wood off there,
but the wood was so hard that I had a difficult time making any real
progress there.<br />
<br />
So today after work, I'm going to get a rasp and remove wood the old
fashioned way - with elbow grease. I'd love to get a bandsaw, but I'll
need to save a little for that.<br />
<br />
Regardless, I affixed the template to the slab yesterday. To do this,
you line up the template with the outline you drew on the body, then
clamp the template to the body. After that you run your screws from the
template down just enough to make a mark on the slab.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JKiV7zj1Vr4/T2ZeRgX2yrI/AAAAAAAADy8/WOF4Teabw6o/s912/2012-03-18_18-08-27_902.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Then you remove the template and check your marks on the slab. If they
are correct (they were - dead center on the glue line), drill pilot
holes for the screws. Remember, you're not going for a structural bond
here - just keeping the template from sliding around, so you can drill
wider pilot holes than you would if you were permanently joining two
pieces of wood.<br />
<br />
Also remember to place your template mounting holes in a place where
they will be hidden in final construction. My holes are 1) under the
bridge, 2) under where the pickguard will be, and 3) in the neck pocket,
which will be routed away.<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0AqrffAz8Qo/T2ZebCvLDJI/AAAAAAAADzU/5T4SEe8r0RY/s512/2012-03-18_18-10-24_362.jpg" /><br />
<br />
All together, here's what we have:<br />
<br />
<img alt="" border="0" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e1ajRSYLLu0/T2ZezHdDkUI/AAAAAAAADzc/QQl_69rBg8g/s512/2012-03-18_18-16-38_820.jpg" /><br />
<br />
After I rasp away all that excess wood, I will take the whole thing over to the router table and route the exact shape.Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-50792060566880916302011-10-24T12:11:00.000-07:002011-10-24T12:11:39.313-07:00routing the body 4I finally routed the neck pocket. I had been putting it off partly because I wanted to make sure it was perfect and was a little apprehensive about making what is most definitely the most important rout on the whole guitar body, and partly because I have moved twice, to two different cities in the past 6 months. I'm all settled now, though, and the shop is all set up, better than ever. That's a great side-benefit of moving - you get a clean slate on how your workspaces are laid out.<br />
<br />
I test-fit my neck to the template I was going to use for the routing, and I found some flaws with the fit, so I did a fair amount of hand sanding, hand-turning drums from the spindle sander, and Dremeling with a tiny sanding drum. Again, perfection is key with this rout. I measured the router bit depth (5/8" for a Telecaster style neck) about ten times and then routed the pocket.<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U7RDtkEwP_I/TqFV4MBhT0I/AAAAAAAACTU/HbIKDbZU15s/s1600/2011-10-13_20-42-44_344" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U7RDtkEwP_I/TqFV4MBhT0I/AAAAAAAACTU/HbIKDbZU15s/s640/2011-10-13_20-42-44_344" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br />
It came out perfect. Perfect shape, perfect depth. Also in the above picture, you can see my previously unreleased pickup configuration. That's a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder in the bridge, a little fatter and juicier than the average Tele pickup (perfect for what I want from this guitar), and then, of course a P90 and a mini humbucker. I still have a trick or two up my sleeve, though.<br />
<br />
Next, I started the finishing process. The first step was to apply sanding sealer. Sanding sealer acts as a moisture barrier, so your guitar body is not susceptible to shrinking and swelling with humidity changes. That's kind of an ancillary benefit, though - it's purpose is to raise the grain and fill pores so that sanding is easier. But it also provides an excellent base for a multitude of finishes. I used Minwax Sanding Sealer, and it surprised me, being a milky white color. I was expecting a clear liquid.<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gymVezHQQWs/TqFWzp7oPVI/AAAAAAAACUE/Inab2ks82QI/s1600/2011-10-20_18-58-13_508" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gymVezHQQWs/TqFWzp7oPVI/AAAAAAAACUE/Inab2ks82QI/s640/2011-10-20_18-58-13_508" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I painted it on to the guitar body with a regular old paint brush, and it became kind of foamy and bubbly in spots. Not a big deal since most of it will be sanded off, but kind of frustrating to work with. <br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LTIbX0bliiE/TqFWnVUBbNI/AAAAAAAACT8/nc6wiljcGTc/s1600/2011-10-20_18-46-53_804" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LTIbX0bliiE/TqFWnVUBbNI/AAAAAAAACT8/nc6wiljcGTc/s640/2011-10-20_18-46-53_804" width="360" /></a></div>
Once the sanding sealer was on, the grain of the mahogany came to life a little bit, which was fun to see. The back, especially, had a great depth to it.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YinNstlZmNI/TqFXJmuB_BI/AAAAAAAACUU/4GIK4JG4vG4/s1600/2011-10-20_18-58-39_475" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YinNstlZmNI/TqFXJmuB_BI/AAAAAAAACUU/4GIK4JG4vG4/s640/2011-10-20_18-58-39_475" width="360" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_h0pb7FpkdI/TqFXAtB1mrI/AAAAAAAACUM/RymAcChjCIU/s1600/2011-10-20_18-58-25_24" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_h0pb7FpkdI/TqFXAtB1mrI/AAAAAAAACUM/RymAcChjCIU/s640/2011-10-20_18-58-25_24" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/yPMRq.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
I am in the process of sanding the sealer down now - it's easy to sand,
but hand sanding anything takes a lot of elbow grease. The faces of the
body are relatively easy, whereas the ends / edges take a little more
control and finesse. I will probably do one more coat, because, as you can see most clearly in the picture of the body's back, the wood was very thirsty and soaked up the sealer in some places. I want to make sure the body is sealed against moisture, but I also want to make sure it's got as little finish on it overall as possible. So after I do another coat, I will sand that coat down as much as I can. Also, a tip on sanding sealer application: use a foam brush. The bristle brush created a lot of bubbling, but the foam brush is more even.<br />
<br />
Also of note, I picked up a lot of odds and ends from Stew-Mac recently, and learned that the details can really get expensive:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/yPMRq.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i.imgur.com/yPMRq.png" /></a> <br />
<br />
That's all for now - here are some mock-ups to check out to hold you over until I paint!<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Q98LFNQil8/TqFWBNQEA7I/AAAAAAAACU8/TfD8S6CzWWQ/s1600/2011-10-13_20-46-34_482" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Q98LFNQil8/TqFWBNQEA7I/AAAAAAAACU8/TfD8S6CzWWQ/s640/2011-10-13_20-46-34_482" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-32595877128731442812011-03-31T08:36:00.000-07:002011-03-31T08:36:12.957-07:00mocking up 1In the last few weeks, I finished the routing of the body cavities, with only the neck pocket left to route. The routing went very well, and although it's not super clean, it's done, and I learned a few things experientially that will help me make the next guitar's routing cleaner.<br />
<br />
I was intentionally waiting for the neck to arrive before I routed the neck pocket, so I could make any measurements or adjustments to my templates that I wanted, for a true perfect fit.<br />
<br />
Well, I got the neck in from Tommy at USACG last night.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TZSL2ExqekI/AAAAAAAABeM/XaAmM0HER0c/s800/2011-03-30_20-12-54_858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TZSL2ExqekI/AAAAAAAABeM/XaAmM0HER0c/s640/2011-03-30_20-12-54_858.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I know I said all this before, but I have never seen customer service on this level before - nothing comes close. When I got the neck, let's just say I found a few unexpected and <i>very</i> welcome surprises.<br />
<br />
Not only did he throw in the ebony board at no extra charge when I ordered the neck, but, to my surprise, he gave this neck a gorgeous "marbled ebony" fretboard. I had never heard of marbled ebony, much less seen it, but man, it looks like, well, marble. It's got some streaks and such, and just has a very subtle cool to it. And it's as smooth as glass. I couldn't believe it was wood and not something synthetic - it just feels otherworldly. Next up, he had rolled the fretboard edges - again at no upcharge. Any guitar player knows that this is a godsend, and any luthier knows that it's no easy task. Hats off to Tommy for taking care of his customers with little extras like this.*<br />
<br />
The flatsawn maple is solid and feels very, very smooth --- if I didn't know better, I would think this neck could get away with no finish. The 6150 frets didn't seem as big as I was expecting them to be, but I may feel differently once the neck has some strings running over it.<br />
<br />
Looking from the heel end up towards the headstock, it's easy to see that this is the straightest neck I've ever seen or held --- it was just absolutely perfect. The perfection of the radius and the straightness of the neck were a little unbelievable. The rolled fretboard edges felt great, and the fret ends were - you guessed it - perfect. <br />
<br />
Anyways, considering the price, I can't fathom getting a better product for the money without feeling like a thief.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TZSL2ExqekI/AAAAAAAABeY/59hbBKCC6EI/2011-03-30_20-12-54_858.jpg">Here</a> is a full resolution picture of the picture above, so you can check it out up close.<br />
<br />
It's cool to see the body with a neck mocked up on it - what do you think about the mock up?<br />
<br />
-Hunter<br />
<br />
<br />
*<i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> You may be thinking "hey, he didn't get what he ordered! Maybe he didn't want rolled fretboard edges or marbled ebony." I made it clear to Tommy at the time of order that I was open-minded and that as long as the main specs were in place (contour, radius, nut width, profile, scale length...) that I was all good.</span></i>Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-51760682891208453242011-03-09T05:07:00.001-08:002011-03-09T05:16:44.576-08:00routing the body 3<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HbXSZ04ekGk/TXd8VpBP9QI/AAAAAAAABYk/NwxUdt-jBY8/s1600/2011-03-05_08-46-18_274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HbXSZ04ekGk/TXd8VpBP9QI/AAAAAAAABYk/NwxUdt-jBY8/s640/2011-03-05_08-46-18_274.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Today I made a little progress - I hogged out a lot of the wood from the pickup cavities and control cavity using forstner bits and my drill press.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GZQS8N3UEkA/TXd8hlInPuI/AAAAAAAABYo/8T3rdwMNicY/s1600/2011-03-05_08-45-25_234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GZQS8N3UEkA/TXd8hlInPuI/AAAAAAAABYo/8T3rdwMNicY/s640/2011-03-05_08-45-25_234.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TXd8vIGUFkI/AAAAAAAABYs/ul60tWX7HAk/s512/2011-03-05_08-45-41_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TXd8vIGUFkI/AAAAAAAABYs/ul60tWX7HAk/s640/2011-03-05_08-45-41_7.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br />
After I got as much mahogany out as I was going to get, I decided to start drawing up a pickguard design.<br />
I want to use a mostly Telecaster pickguard shape, but with a sexier upper bout line, to fit the "mostly Telecaster shaped with a sexier upper bout shape" theme of the guitar.<br />
<br />
I found an old Stratocaster pickguard in my basement and used it as a reference for a smoother upper bout line. I then hand drew the corners / interface points and it turned out pretty well. The upper left shoulder / corner kind of mimics the carve of the guitar's upper bout, which would be a really nice but subtle design tie. I will spend some more time getting that shoulder curve to match the upper bout curve exactly, and see how that looks. It could be too homogeneous, and if it is, I'll think up something different.<br />
<br />
I'm going to keep the pickguard shape under wraps for now, because I am still not 100% on it.<br />
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More to come,<br />
Hunter<br />
<br />
</div>Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-3052759586359688142011-03-01T11:31:00.000-08:002011-03-01T11:31:25.519-08:00routing the body 2This weekend I got a fair amount of work done.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8PzwwHEOuGY/TW0i2pwHX7I/AAAAAAAABVY/QYsll5LJbQc/s1600/2011-03-01_07-47-14_704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8PzwwHEOuGY/TW0i2pwHX7I/AAAAAAAABVY/QYsll5LJbQc/s640/2011-03-01_07-47-14_704.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
The biggest task I tackled was creating an MDF template for the pickup routes and control cavity rout. I wanted to include the neck pocket rout on this template, and I did, but I may not use it. More on that later.<br />
<br />
I wanted to create a template that had the control cavity, pickup, and neck pocket routes all in one place so that I could use the same template to create a guitar, no matter what the body shape of the guitar is.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xWpkBkG5Q7o/TW0iNzVsjTI/AAAAAAAABU4/Mz_hJYIOwKU/s1600/2011-02-27_10-18-23_942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xWpkBkG5Q7o/TW0iNzVsjTI/AAAAAAAABU4/Mz_hJYIOwKU/s640/2011-02-27_10-18-23_942.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<br />
The body that I have designed here is my<i> first </i>effort, and I have already found parts of the design that I want to change on the next go-round. I do, however, love the Telecaster bridge design, and the Telecaster bridge pickup sound, and I know that I want this element on every guitar that I make for a while. With this template, I can rout the Telecaster bridge pickup and control cavity and neck pocket routes into any piece of wood I like, carve that wood to any shape I like, and boom, that's a guitar.<br />
<br />
So, for this universal template, I wanted to incorporate<br />
<ol><li>The Telecaster bridge pickup rout</li>
<li>The Telecaster control cavity rout</li>
<li>A "swimming pool" rout for the middle and neck pickups wide enough to accommodate a P90, Mini-Humbucker, full size humbucker, STratocaster-style single coil, or Telecaster style single coil in either position</li>
<li>A Telecaster dimensioned neck pocket</li>
</ol> As you can see, the template I created includes all of the above, and after I finished the template, I secured it to my mahogany body slab with wood screws and began the routing process. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MnfkGifiMmc/TW0ijwXII0I/AAAAAAAABVI/5vH0-HJAL4o/s1600/2011-02-27_10-18-54_437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MnfkGifiMmc/TW0ijwXII0I/AAAAAAAABVI/5vH0-HJAL4o/s400/2011-02-27_10-18-54_437.jpg" width="225" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>I had to find a new anchor point for the template, as my previously used anchor point (that I used for attaching the body shape template to the mahogany slab) was not available this time around, as that part of the template was routed out for the neck and middle pickup rout. I found another anchor point in the thin isthmus between the bridge pickup rout and the neck and middle swimming pool rout. I then traced the routs onto the mahogany slab with a pencil (for reference) and began hogging out wood with a forstner bit chucked into my drill press. I only got five 1" diameter holes drilled before something else popped up and I had to quit for the weekend, but I am pleased with the progress.<br />
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<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTygeyv6ZIyC3mfYBqPteZcsq7DiCZP6yrj5WWDn47daw-wVF5jyg&t=1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTygeyv6ZIyC3mfYBqPteZcsq7DiCZP6yrj5WWDn47daw-wVF5jyg&t=1" /></a></div>Before I did any of this, I did the roundover on the body. Standard Telecaster roundover radius is 1/8", and a Stratocaster roundover is more like 1/4" (don't quote me on these, just shooting from the hip) so I went in the middle with a 3/16" roundover radius. It came out exactly how I wanted it to (radius selection, that is).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nMWOfZOEb30/TW0ipFkZWrI/AAAAAAAABVM/Zu4ipm81quo/s1600/2011-02-28_20-39-32_635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nMWOfZOEb30/TW0ipFkZWrI/AAAAAAAABVM/Zu4ipm81quo/s640/2011-02-28_20-39-32_635.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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As you can clearly see in some of the pictures, I let the roundover bit sit a bit too long in some spots, which resulted in some burns. It's no big deal though, for two reasons - one is that those burns will sand out, and the other is that this guitar will have an opaque finish (white).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-doUE7Uahxw4/TW0jSjDAEnI/AAAAAAAABVs/kELYOzMBIHg/s1600/2011-03-01_07-48-00_179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-doUE7Uahxw4/TW0jSjDAEnI/AAAAAAAABVs/kELYOzMBIHg/s640/2011-03-01_07-48-00_179.jpg" width="640" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y8oGfYliKI4/TW0jFivm7VI/AAAAAAAABVk/odCEVb8fX58/s1600/2011-03-01_07-47-39_283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y8oGfYliKI4/TW0jFivm7VI/AAAAAAAABVk/odCEVb8fX58/s640/2011-03-01_07-47-39_283.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yac6qfJDA3Y/TW0jM54KOKI/AAAAAAAABVo/O2s_2Vz7jCg/s1600/2011-03-01_07-47-50_703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yac6qfJDA3Y/TW0jM54KOKI/AAAAAAAABVo/O2s_2Vz7jCg/s640/2011-03-01_07-47-50_703.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ntCZ207RmnA/TW0i-LP7kvI/AAAAAAAABWY/G5ONDyjN9oo/s1600/2011-03-01_07-47-25_839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ntCZ207RmnA/TW0i-LP7kvI/AAAAAAAABWY/G5ONDyjN9oo/s640/2011-03-01_07-47-25_839.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br />
Also, big news!<br />
<br />
I ordered the neck for this guitar yesterday. I called Tommy at USACG, and I have to say, he is about the nicest person in the world. He gave me his undivided attention, heard me out on everything I asked about, and gave me an unbelievable price for the neck. He remembered my mom from when she called to order the slab of mahogany that I'm working with now and the gift certificate she got me, and asked me to tell her hello - now that's good customer relations!<br />
<br />
Anyways, here are the specs for the neck that I ordered:<br />
<ul><li>25.5" scale length</li>
<li> US-2 Reverse headstock</li>
<li>Tele dimensioned heel</li>
<li>Maple neck</li>
<li> Ebony fretboard</li>
<li>"Fat Back" contour, 1" the whole way</li>
<li>1 11/16" nut width</li>
<li>10" radius (a la PRS)</li>
<li>Creme dots</li>
<li>6150 frets </li>
</ul>So, basically a gigantic baseball bat of an ebony board neck with a reverse Strat-style headstock and huge frets.<br />
<br />
Yeah buddy,<br />
HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-11509837501283485602011-01-31T08:18:00.000-08:002011-01-31T08:18:21.676-08:00routing the body 1<div class="separator" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2008041/6666/14-SH-12-D-x-1-CL-x-212-OL-B9-Bearing---Template-Bit-Whiteside-3004.aspx"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/24A61_400.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
This past weekend, I routed the shape of my template into the mahogany body blank.<br />
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As mentioned in <a href="http://phinnguitars.blogspot.com/2010/11/building-templates-1.html">building templates 1</a>, this process involves a pattern bit for the router, whose bearing rides along the template without doing any cutting, while the bit spins and cuts the wood - in the exact shape of the template.<br />
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I had very good luck with a Whiteside pattern bit, part number 3004. It cut through the mahogany so well, I could barely believe it at first. I can attribute some of the effortlessness to my router, a very stout Porter-Cable 690 series variable speed unit, but I definitely have to give a tip of the hat to this Whiteside bit. It felt like I was cutting styrofoam - hardly any resistance, and total control. Now I know how having the right tools for the job can truly make your work enjoyable. I chucked the bit into the router, then mounted the router into my router table, and off I went.<br />
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It's important to note that routing wood like this creates a lot of shavings / sawdust. It seems like a cubic inch of wood, routed, makes a cubic foot of shavings. If you have the means to hook up a vacuum hood to your router table or workspace, do it. I was continually using a brush and dustpan to collect shavings so I could see my work, and I thought "all this extra hand movement near the spinning bit is not a good thing." I will rig up a dust collection hood next time I rout.<br />
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I secured the .75" MDF template to my body blank with two #10, 1.75" wood screws. Some folks use double-stick tape and say that it's sufficient for holding the template in the exact same spot throughout the routing, but I know that with wood screws, the template is <i>definitely</i> not going to shift on the body blank. If you go the woodscrew route like I did, there are two important actions:<br />
<br />
<ol><li>Countersink the screw heads on the template. I have a <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100116885&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=100116885&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D25X-_-100116885&locStoreNum=4647">countersink drill bit set</a> that I use all the time, and it's exceptionally important to use them here - because the template, affixed to the body blank, will be against the router table surface, so the surface of the template must be perfectly flat and smooth</li>
<li>Locate the two attachment points somewhere where they won't be visible on the finished guitar. I located one where it will be beneath the bridge of the guitar when finished, and the other where it will be beneath the pickguard when the guitar is finished</li>
</ol> As advised by more experienced builders, I took "small bites with the router bit, only routing .25" to .50" at a time, as illustrated here:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR-EyJJF_I/AAAAAAAABRI/KcAeyyqPhFY/s1600/2011-01-29_15-35-16_631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR-EyJJF_I/AAAAAAAABRI/KcAeyyqPhFY/s640/2011-01-29_15-35-16_631.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
In that photo, the template has been removed, and two passes have been performed already. After the depth of the edge rout is roughly equivalent to the cutting depth of your router bit, obviously, your router bit won't be able to extend far enough to cut any more wood. So what I did was remove the template, then let the already-routed portion of the body serve as the template. It worked perfectly. I did probably 4 passes on this body, each about .50" in depth. The picture above shows the approximate halfway point of my routing.<br />
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After I was there, there was nothin' to it but to do it, and I finished up. Here are a few pictures I took along the way:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR9xDP5R_I/AAAAAAAABQ0/aZWFMsT4Ork/s1600/2011-01-29_15-34-25_216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR9xDP5R_I/AAAAAAAABQ0/aZWFMsT4Ork/s640/2011-01-29_15-34-25_216.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR91wimS0I/AAAAAAAABQ4/JBObEUa7iIM/s1600/2011-01-29_15-34-40_627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR91wimS0I/AAAAAAAABQ4/JBObEUa7iIM/s640/2011-01-29_15-34-40_627.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR96W-qzMI/AAAAAAAABQ8/81dOGgyvGWo/s1600/2011-01-29_15-34-50_599.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR96W-qzMI/AAAAAAAABQ8/81dOGgyvGWo/s640/2011-01-29_15-34-50_599.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR9-_h8ilI/AAAAAAAABRE/KxPO0CROcLs/s1600/2011-01-29_15-34-57_110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUR9-_h8ilI/AAAAAAAABRE/KxPO0CROcLs/s640/2011-01-29_15-34-57_110.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUSqZwkHNiI/AAAAAAAABRY/sxK4Pcz0Hig/s1600/2011-01-29_16-39-17_843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUSqZwkHNiI/AAAAAAAABRY/sxK4Pcz0Hig/s640/2011-01-29_16-39-17_843.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUSqvPrnLeI/AAAAAAAABRs/VYU4iZmMBSo/s1600/2011-01-29_16-38-02_149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TUSqvPrnLeI/AAAAAAAABRs/VYU4iZmMBSo/s640/2011-01-29_16-38-02_149.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
The next step from here is creating templates for the neck, pickup and control cavity routs. Since this is an original design, I may actually have to use my brain, some pencil and paper, and possibly even a calculator to get it laid out, so watch out!<br />
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All in all, this weekend's work was very fulfilling. It taught me that spending a few extra bucks for the right tool can really increase your ease of work, enjoyment of the work, and most of all, the safety of the work. I've said it a million times, and I'll say it again - there's no better feeling than the peace of mind that comes from <i>trusting your gear</i>.<br />
<br />
Until next time,<br />
HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-1503314033134600442011-01-18T06:08:00.000-08:002011-01-18T06:08:28.849-08:00my first design 2This week, I finished up my template. I logged a lot of hours with the spindle sander, getting the edges smooth and getting the shape just like I wanted it. I am pleased with the result.<br />
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs007.snc6/165752_10100107128809863_6201882_51466377_289794_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs007.snc6/165752_10100107128809863_6201882_51466377_289794_n.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<b>This is not necessarily the hardware layout the guitar will have</b> - I just put this Tele hardware down down to envision the shape of the template as a guitar and not just a shape.<br />
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I just got a 24" x 12" sheet of tortoise shell pickguard material in the mail, so I will make the pickguard out of that. I haven't settled on a pickguard shape yet, but trust that it won't come up as high on the upper bout as the Telecaster pickguard pictured above.<br />
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Also, I rough-cut an awesome, awesome slab of mahogany to the shape of this template last week, and I'll be routing it this week. The mahogany is so light I can't believe it.<br />
<br />
My mom got the slab of mahogany for me from USACG as a Christmas gift. She told me that Tommy at USACG asked her what kind of finish I was going to do. She figured I would do some sort of a see-through finish, and so Tommy picked out a very nice looking piece of mahogany. She also got me a gift certificate to USACG (to buy more wood), and on the gift certificate where it has the To / From lines, it says "To: Hunter, From: Your Very Cool Mother." He thought it was so cool that my mom was helping me build guitars. I think it's cool too --- thanks, Mom!<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs799.ash1/168940_10100107126060373_6201882_51466368_76577_n.jpg" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1376.snc4/164825_10100107126185123_6201882_51466369_1170823_n.jpg" /><br />
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More to come as I do some routing this week.<br />
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-HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-54700940736137125602011-01-12T09:43:00.000-08:002011-01-12T09:45:19.073-08:00my first designOK, so I'm pretty well outfitted now --- I have enough tools to build, at the very least, a rough guitar body that you could put strings on and play. I am not fully set up for finishing yet, but, as they say, we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.<br />
<br />
I had started making templates for a Telecaster style guitar - noting that Telecasters are generally the easiest starting point for a novice builder (no carved top, no tummy cut, no forearm contour, etcetera), but I began to realize, <i>the guitar I want to build is not a Telecaster, so why warm up on a Telecaster</i> --- why not warm up with the guitar I have in my head?<br />
<br />
So, I got out a piece of cardboard, and started drawing lines. I traced the lower half of a Telecaster body, and then I traced the upper half of a PRS Singlecut body. I like Telecasters and I like Les Pauls, but I have always found the PRS Singlecut shape to be a better fit for me, if not slightly less cliche.<br />
<br />
My first draft looked like this:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs018.snc6/166867_999564362903_6201882_51208392_4942251_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs018.snc6/166867_999564362903_6201882_51208392_4942251_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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I drew it on New Year's Eve, on the floor of our living room. In the above picture, you can clearly see the Telecaster shaped lower bout, and you can also see the signature Singlecut shape on the upper bout, but with a confusing neck joint intersection.<br />
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Because of the neck joint issue, I had to make a revision to the first template. I like how far up the neck the upper bout comes, so I decided to simply round the upper bout down to meet the neck heel. Here's what I came up with:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TS3ajs55bKI/AAAAAAAABPo/mkf7XSZx9ws/s1600/2011-01-11_21-09-44_764.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UrZo1_zc1mM/TS3ajs55bKI/AAAAAAAABPo/mkf7XSZx9ws/s640/2011-01-11_21-09-44_764.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />
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I drew this template on 3/4" MDF, rough cut the shape with a jigsaw, then did a lot (but definitely not all) of the sanding on the oscillating spindle sander to remove MDF down to the line that I had drawn.<br />
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In the above template, I still want to:<br />
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1) Round out the upper bout, near where the strap pin will be --- it's not perfectly rounded yet, and I feel like the overall look of it could benefit from having some more material removed<br />
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2) Finish sanding the bottom / endpin area --- sanding a flat spot is remarkably difficult with a spindle sander --- it's tough not to get a scalloped looking edge, like a cartoon of the ocean's surface. I have a belt sander attachment for my oscillating spindle sander, but I screwed up the adjustment on it last night, and got tired of tuning it, so I just went with the sanding drums for the rest of my time in the shop. <b>If you have advice on getting smooth edges with a spindle sander, please leave a comment</b>. I would love the help.<br />
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Also new this week, I placed several orders for guitar parts. Coming to me this week:<br />
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1) A big sheet of tortoise shell pickguard material<br />
2) A P90 routing template<br />
3) A humbucker routing template<br />
4) Electrosocket jacks<br />
5) Solid / no holes Tele style control plates, so I can drill my own holes where I want them<br />
6) A Wilkinson Tele style bridge - string-through + toploader<br />
7) An aged white Tele style pickguard with a humbucker neck pickup rout<br />
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I will probably put that aged white pickguard on this body (after I rout it for a neck humbucker), that I received in trade for a pair of Gibson BurstBucker Pro pickups from my good buddy Crane in Boise, ID. Not a bad deal.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs933.snc4/74668_993918043173_6201882_51039786_4954136_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs933.snc4/74668_993918043173_6201882_51039786_4954136_n.jpg" width="475" /></a></div><br />
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He is a DIY CNC'er, and he cut me this crazy one piece purpleheart Tele body. If I had to estimate it's weight, I would say it's just slightly lighter than a Ford truck. It will probably sound like heaven high-fiving hell.<br />
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Until next time,<br />
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HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-966580422072143372010-12-09T06:35:00.000-08:002010-12-09T06:35:30.618-08:00getting outfitted 3Last night, I had some time to get down to the shop and work a little bit. My first order of business was assembling my new router table.<br />
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My birthday was in November, and my lovely wife got me a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-40-001-Contractor-Benchtop/dp/B00002242E">Bench Dog ProTop</a> router table as a gift.<br />
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A router table is important in guitar building, because it allows the builder, when routing, to <i>move the work, not the router</i>. You mount the router, bit towards heaven, to the underside of that white table top, and the router bit sticks through that big hole in the center of the grey plate. As the bit spins, the builder moves the wood into the bit.<br />
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Some folks say the benefit of a router table is that if the bit and the wood hook up, the part that goes flying is the wood --- and more importantly, <i>not</i> the router, with it's 20,000+ RPM razor sharp cutter.<br />
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In general, it's always a good idea to bolt down the most dangerous piece of equipment, in pretty much all areas of life. So instead of clamping the wood to a table and moving the router over it, I've decided to bolt the router to a very heavy cabinet table like this, and move the wood over <i>it</i>.<br />
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Also, I found a remarkably helpful series of YouTube videos this week, illustrating in video the steps that home guitar builder takes to get a guitar body from body blank to Tele plank. Huge thanks to YouTube user <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/customd28">customd28</a>.<br />
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This video will give you a great idea of how I will use my router and router table to shape the guitar body.<br />
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<object height="385" width="640"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/UHitMn7_bJQ?fs=1&hl=en_US&color1=0x2b405b&color2=0x6b8ab6"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/UHitMn7_bJQ?fs=1&hl=en_US&color1=0x2b405b&color2=0x6b8ab6" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object><br />
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Until next time,<br />
HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-43771282891722807752010-11-09T14:24:00.000-08:002010-11-09T14:24:27.082-08:00building templates 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi32j1zmW1yMlk4bLr0KbA3W0yfrpxEcCWUFdH0lYIUWuC4fetN1W0sIwlwIx-2g9On8IlWGgpfs3THmWFQbGNVZCldBGzXaORPPGe65rUcH5NQJvWiwt2CnEpRW8RavDqAJMr2S0wIyEd4/s1600/flush_trim_router_bit.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi32j1zmW1yMlk4bLr0KbA3W0yfrpxEcCWUFdH0lYIUWuC4fetN1W0sIwlwIx-2g9On8IlWGgpfs3THmWFQbGNVZCldBGzXaORPPGe65rUcH5NQJvWiwt2CnEpRW8RavDqAJMr2S0wIyEd4/s200/flush_trim_router_bit.png" width="163" /></a>When building a solidbody guitar with a router, it's common practice to first create a set of templates out of something sturdy (and easily machinable) like MDF. The purpose here is to create a reusable guide to use when carving the body with a flush trim router bit. A flush trim router bit has a bearing on it, that allows you to rest the bearing on a template and follow that template, cutting the wood in the exact shape of that template.<br />
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So, step 1, I got my hands on a blueprint. For my first build, I decided on a Telecaster style body - they're simple, they're flat-top, they don't have forearm and belly contours, and I just happen to like Telecasters. <br />
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Lucky for me, our good friend Terry Downs over on <a href="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/">TDPRI</a> has created an <a href="http://terrydownsmusic.com/Archive/tele_body_drawing_revD.pdf"><i>extremely</i> detailed Telecaster blueprint</a>, that he shares with the home-guitar-building community freely.<br />
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Now is as good a time as any to mention that basically all of my preliminary knowledge of home guitar building came from the good folks over at TDPRI. I would like to extend a special thanks to Jack Wells, Colt W. Knight, Scatter Lee, and jkingma, and motor_city_tele. The build threads posted, and the feedback on other peoples' build threads offered by these gentleman has been absolutely imperative to me getting started, and I am very grateful. <br />
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So, I printed the blueprint up, pieced it together (most folks just run to Kinko's and get it printed up on one big sheet of paper), and glued it to a piece of MDF.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs092.ash2/37953_960761129893_6201882_50269421_2754807_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs092.ash2/37953_960761129893_6201882_50269421_2754807_n.jpg" width="292" /></a></div><br />
After I glued it down, I rough-cut the section of my MDF plank to the dimension of the blueprint, first with a circular saw, then with a jigsaw.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs925.snc4/73801_967166957563_6201882_50443110_5991308_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs925.snc4/73801_967166957563_6201882_50443110_5991308_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I cut as close to the outline as possible, leaving a little room to finish the edges with the spindle sander, since the jigsaw has a bit of "blade walk," where the bottom of the blade will swing to the outside of the top of the blade while cutting, and the spindle sander gives a perfectly square edge.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs985.snc4/75805_968280321373_6201882_50466887_4273070_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs985.snc4/75805_968280321373_6201882_50466887_4273070_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After the rough body shape is cut by the jigsaw, I take it to the spindle sander. To be more specific, it's an oscillating belt / spindle sander. Oscillating = the spindle (also referred to as the drum) moves <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/garethky/3207969881/">up towards heaven, then down towards hell</a> at about 30 cycles per minute. This action serves to keep the sandpaper clear, and also keeps the sandpaper from heating up in one spot and burning the work. The unit I have, by Ridgid (pictured above, and also in that video link) is convertible, so it can act as both an oscillating belt sander and an oscillating spindle sander. Converting the machine from belt to spindle or spindle to belt is a very simple, no-tool process that takes about 30 seconds.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs566.ash2/148876_968872419803_6201882_50484932_678799_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs566.ash2/148876_968872419803_6201882_50484932_678799_n.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">A Manhattan on the rocks is a great way to celebrate a job well done, but should never be enjoyed while working by men who like having ten fingers. </span></i> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On the spindle sander, I sand the template to the outline on the blueprint. This yields a perfectly square, smooth edge, and now we're looking at a template that has been machined down to exactly the shape of a Telecaster.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a aiotarget="false" aiotitle="" href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1154.snc4/149642_968873891853_6201882_50484994_4108723_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1154.snc4/149642_968873891853_6201882_50484994_4108723_n.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">There you have it - the first steps of creating a reusable body template. In the next steps, we will modify this template to include the pickup and control cavity routs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <br />
-Hunter</div>Hunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-11419153203215172422010-11-08T06:02:00.000-08:002010-11-08T10:36:30.357-08:00getting outfitted 2After I got my drill press, my good friend Daniel said I "<span data-jsid="text">better get a sturdier table for that 500 pound drill press." The drill press is only 100 pounds, but the point landed. Using a plastic folding table for a workbench was not going to work for several reasons.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs416.snc4/47884_928368509963_6201882_49416908_7276082_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs416.snc4/47884_928368509963_6201882_49416908_7276082_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span data-jsid="text"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Hardly a workshop</i></span></span></div><span data-jsid="text"><br />
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<span data-jsid="text">One was that the drill press that was sinking into the hollow polyethylene table, but also the height of the table was too low to work comfortably, and the footprint of the table was not large enough to fit everything .</span><br />
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<span data-jsid="text">So I decided to build a workbench. First things first, what did I want out of the workbench? Well, I wanted it to be strong, I wanted it to be tall, and I wanted it to be deep and wide.</span><br />
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<span data-jsid="text">So I made a design on a piece of graph paper and headed to the Home Depot to pickup some 2x4s.</span><br />
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<i><span data-jsid="text">Note: I elected to use 2x4s for the legs of this workbench, but not for any particular reason. I am aware that 4x4 legs are more common, and make more sense. In hindsight, I should have gone for 4x4 legs, because the 2x4 legs on my bench seem to have more flex in them than a workbench should have. The bench is stable, but it could be better.</span></i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs305.ash2/58582_932928242223_6201882_49534498_3843753_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs305.ash2/58582_932928242223_6201882_49534498_3843753_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span data-jsid="text"><span style="font-size: x-small;">2x4s mocked up to show dimension of the bench against the wall</span></span></i><i><span data-jsid="text"> </span></i></div><br />
<span data-jsid="text">I came home with a pile of 2x4s and two melamine shelf boards (96x16x0.75) for the bench top. The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melamine_resin">melamine</a> boards have heat-resistant, low friction, wipe-clean surface - perfect for a workbench. </span><br />
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<span data-jsid="text">Since both the 2x4s and the melamine boards were 8 feet long, I decided to just make the bench 8 feet long. Since the melamine boards are 16" deep, I decided to make the bench 32" deep. After measuring 100 tables, countertops, benches, etcetera, I decided on 38" for the bench height. I am a tell person, and I hate bending over, so this awesomely tall bench is perfect for me.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs463.ash2/73647_959107753273_6201882_50224110_2169581_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs463.ash2/73647_959107753273_6201882_50224110_2169581_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span data-jsid="text"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Workbench finished and basement organized</i></span><br />
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<span data-jsid="text">Doing the entire build alone presented a few trials, but I got it done and that's what matters. I would not recommend building something of this size alone. </span><br />
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</span><br />
<span data-jsid="text">After getting the workbench built, I was ready to start making templates for my guitars. I will jump ahead a minute here and mention that in the time during and after building my workbench, I picked up a few tools that will be essential to guitar building.</span><br />
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<span data-jsid="text">First up was a solid circular saw. I only had a batter powered circular saw when I started the workbench build, and anyone who knows me knows this: I HATE BATTERY POWERED TOOLS. So I found a very, very solid feeling unit that made short work of not only the workbench cuts, but also helped and will help me rough-cut pieces of MDF and wood for guitar builds.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs570.ash2/149274_967148519513_6201882_50442730_5706094_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs570.ash2/149274_967148519513_6201882_50442730_5706094_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><span data-jsid="text"><br />
</span><br />
<span data-jsid="text">Another piece I picked up was a Oscillating Spindle / Belt Sander. Both the belt and the spindle sander </span>will be immensely helpful in getting smooth edges on my guitar templates and bodies, and the belt sander will be helpful in shaping guitar necks out of raw wood. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs565.ash2/148759_967150475593_6201882_50442735_4926053_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs565.ash2/148759_967150475593_6201882_50442735_4926053_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Next up, I HAD TO get some dust collection going. If you've ever worked with MDF, you know, but if you haven't, hear this: the dust from cutting and sanding MDF is toxic, it WILL irritate your respiratory system, it WILL make you feel bad, and it WILL take years off your life.<br />
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So, I picked up a simple wet-dry vac at Home Depot, but MADE SURE I got a dust collection bag for it. Dust collection bags are tighter / finer than a regular vacuum filter, and they prevent the fine dust from cutting and shaping wood (and MDF) from passing through the filter and recirculating. In the picture above, you can see the wet-dry vac under the table. What you can't see is that there is a hose running directly from the vacuum to the spindle sander. The table surface of the spindle sander has slots cut into it that are plumbed to a vacuum port on the back of the unit. Simply hook up a vacuum hose to the sander, and enjoy integrated dust collection.<br />
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As a secondary precaution, and since I do not have integrated dust collection on my circular saw, which produces a lot of dust, I picked up a respirator. There are all sorts of units out there, some of which have canisters rated for paint and finishing, and others, like mine, that have canisters rated for fine particulate matter. I picked up an MSA model with dust canisters, and it's both comfortable and effective. It takes some getting used to, though --- inhaling through filter canisters and exhaling through a tight 1-way valve is a bit restrictive at first, but once you get the hang of slow, deep breaths, you're all good.<br />
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Also of note, I have been using simple "science goggles" when working with dust. Getting MDF or wood dust in my eye is not something I'm interested in. I wear glasses - pretty large frames, too, and the goggles fit over them with little interference. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1119.snc4/148188_967109991723_6201882_50442054_3686746_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1119.snc4/148188_967109991723_6201882_50442054_3686746_n.jpg" width="468" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Phinn, I am your father</span></span></div><br />
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At this point, I am fairly well outfitted for basic guitar <i>body</i> building. I will need a few more specific tools to get into guitar <i>neck</i> building, but we're not quite there yet.<br />
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Next up, let's start making some templates!<br />
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-HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-9954650627891101692010-11-07T16:13:00.000-08:002010-11-07T16:13:24.372-08:00getting outfittedBuilding guitars requires a few tools that most folks don't have lying around.<br />
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To get going with building guitars, I had to pick up a few new tools.<br />
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First thing I bought was a drill press.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs436.snc4/47884_928368514953_6201882_49416909_3701721_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs436.snc4/47884_928368514953_6201882_49416909_3701721_n.jpg" /></a></div>I went with a Ryobi 12" drill press. In guitar building, a drill press is used for hogging out cavities using a forstner bit, drilling string-through holes, drilling tuning machine holes, and, with specific attachments, can be used to press frets, plane headstocks and more.<br />
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The next tool I picked up was a jigsaw.<br />
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In guitar building, jigsaws are used for rough-cutting the shape of a guitar body into wood. Some folks use a bandsaw, but a jigsaw with a good blade and the proper technique will serve the purpose just fine.<br />
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Next thing I bought was a router. <br />
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I went to my local Woodcraft and talked to an old guy for about an hour about what I was doing, and asked him for a recommendation on a router. He stopped for a second, and hollered to the 5 or so other guys in the store, all retired-looking guys that knew each other, and he said "who here runs a Porter-Cable 690?!"<br />
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All 5 hands went up, and so did his. After reading hundreds of guitar build threads, and seeing a Porter-Cable 690 in almost everyone's shop, he confirmed what I already pretty much knew.<br />
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I sprung for the <a href="http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=11104#" target="_blank">694VK kit</a>, which is the variable-speed version of the 690, plus both a fixed base and a plunge base and a very nice case.<br />
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Next up, I needed to build a workbench.<br />
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-HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5816838883144964134.post-42057110641846884302010-11-07T12:14:00.000-08:002010-11-07T15:50:17.278-08:00the ideaIn February of 2010, I found out that my wife and I were having a son in October. I love guitars, and I had the bright idea to assemble a guitar for my son this year, then mothball it until he was old enough to play, or expressed interest in playing, at which point I'd present it to him and explain how I <strike>built</strike> assembled it in the year preceding his birth, symbolism galore, etcetera. Happy family moment.<br />
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Well, I also wanted the guitar to be perfect.<br />
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I don't mean perfect like "flawless finish," or "incredible inlays;" I mean perfect like "everything you need, nothing you don't."<br />
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The "...<i>nothing you don't</i>" is easy.<br />
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The "<i>everything you need</i>" is tough.<br />
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I communicated with the well-known custom guitar shops that most folks use for building "Partscasters." My design was too far off the beaten path for them, and neither of the shops I talked to would make the guitar body I had in mind. I hadn't considered that they might not make it; and my plan was back at square one.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Then it dawned on me - with the amount of money I had saved up for a custom made guitar body and neck, I could </i><i>buy the tools I needed to </i><i>make my own</i></span>.<br />
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I like Stratocasters. I like Telecasters. I like Les Pauls. I like ES-335s. I like Flying Vs. I like Rickenbackers. I am not a polarized guitar player that proclaims loyalty to one brand family. I hate poorly executed "compromise" guitars. I love well executed "<a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/compromise">compromise</a>" guitars. Even though I basically have one of each type in the rack at home, for some reason I like and want to build "do-it-all" guitars.<br />
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I have decided to make the goal for the guitars I build to be the condensation of everything I like about guitars. <br />
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This seems simple to me - put everything I like on it, leave everything I don't like off of it. But there are times when you cannot have it both ways - for example, if I like the single-cutaway low-mid focus of Telecasters and Les Pauls, but I like the double-cutaway balance, ergonomics, and access of Stratocasters and 335s, I have to pick one. Or can I design a guitar that gives me both?<br />
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There are many choices similar to this that I am making and will continue to have to make as I build these guitars. Right now, since I am just starting out, I am going to get going by building some familiar shapes, and blending features in the hardware department. Once I learn how to build by walking myself through the process a couple of times, then I will begin to create my own designs, solve the riddles of a do-it-all guitar, and move forward into projects that bring excitement to myself and others.<br />
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We named our son Phinn. He is the reason that I am starting to build guitars, so I am naming the whole guitar building experiment after him.<br />
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Welcome to phinn guitars.<br />
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-HunterHunterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14962811420060919535noreply@blogger.com0